I do not use so expensive ironware for everyday use. Those with 30W are sufficient for mounting but it is quite difficult to solder the chassis and thick cable . In these situations, the 40W soldering iron is inevitable, and the cheapness of these items is soon to deteriorate.
I started to look for dimmer circuitry , saying that it would be best to get a moderate 40W soldering iron and adjust the voltage with the dimmer , while the tripping of the circuit soldering is up to the end and the resistance of the supply to between 25-30W will last longer .
DIMMER CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
The schematic seen on the link is slightly different from the ordinary dimmer circuits. If I did not get it wrong, he wrote that this was not doing anything like crackling parasites during opening and closing.
There was no scheme, but there was no brazing solder plan, and I had to sit down and draw a nice one. He could fit on a 5 × 5 cm card. I have been quite uncomfortable with the crisp and parasite phenomena in the simple dimmer circuits I have done before, and I have never encountered such an event in this circuit. I do not know if it is the interference of the mains network at the exit of the devil or the four diode rectifying circuit revealed, but the expectation was exceeded.
I used BT138 for being eliminated as triac. Many counterparts will fit there without trouble. The triac is almost never warmed, probably because the load of the 40W is low, but I still cut a small aluminum plate and screw it.
On the screen, the filter bobbin was specified as 47uH, but the 120uH did not cause distress. I put it in a small plastic lokum box and screwed an edge under the table. I also gave a prize on the surface of the exit type. Thus, we had a voltage-controlled socket. But only to connect the pen to the airplane.
If this prize accidentally connects another device and you also reduce the voltage, your device may be damaged. Stick a warning note next to the outlet or prevent someone else from using it.
The voltage readings on the paper and the readings on the avometer may be slightly different, as the network does not have much voltage. The first time I measured and printed on paper, the second time I was taking pictures, the mains voltage went down from 235 volts to about 226 volts. The switch starts around 65-70V when first switched on, potentiometry 1.2.3. there is not much tension difference in their stages. The potentiometer in the picture is the potentiometer with the key switch, so if you pay attention to the types that are sold, it is plastic.
