I haven’t been sharing in a long time. When I mixed my archive, I saw the 8 Channel 24A triaced animation card that I prepared for 6 months ago. Obviously I forgot about things. After a little overhaul of the project files, I said to share with you.
I designed the card for the amusement park. So far, no complaints have been received from the animation card. It works in a problem-free manner.
Generally speaking, I used the BTA24 600BW as a triac on the circuit . According to the Triac triad catalog can survive up to 25A and 600V. I used the MOC3020 Triac driver with optical isolator in driving the triacs . The processor has Pic16F628A.
I didn’t have much animation variety because I did it on a special request. Today, I overwritten the software and added a few more animations. It was a little more satisfying now.
The circuit diagram is as follows.
Follow the given link in the below for high resolutions pictures.
There was a lot of load on my circuit. Of course, max. I measured the current. Approximately 7-8A per channel was drawn. As a result of this current BTA 24 were slightly warmed. It wasn’t excessive heat. I didn’t care.
The PCB is as follows:
ATTENTION The BTA24s have an A2 leg and the body is isolated from each other. So you can connect to the single refrigerant without interfering. When connecting to the cooler, always use heat conduction pastes. You can also use the BTB24 as a triac, but the A2 leg and the body of these triacs are in communication with each other. Therefore, you need to isolate the Triacs from the cooler to connect to the single refrigerant. Otherwise, you may experience poor results. Also on the PCB, especially the load part, more precisely over high current passing roads with a thick solder layer must thicken the way. Otherwise, the copper road can evaporate at high current alone. 🙂
The BTA24s are a bit expensive. If you say you don’t need too much current, you can use Triacs like BTA16 or BTA12. The legs are the same in the connections.
Let me give you the pictures of the circuit.
Finally, let me tell you this. Where do you always have the PCB on the circuit? They ask. I’m telling you how I do. The simple fact is that it almost goes through the same stages of printing the subprint.
I do this;
Actually, it’s like double-decker PCBs. At first, I normally press the bottom of the PCB and iron it out of the acid. Then I’m drilling holes in the corners of the PCB or the appropriate parts of the PCB. For example, 3mm holes in the corner to install the PCB is suitable for this job. I don’t recommend punching holes before pressing the material view.
Since the lower copper is perforated from the surface, burrs are formed on the surface where the materials will be placed. These burrs create problems when printing the element surface even if very small. So just open 4 alignment holes in the corners of the pcb. Clean the burrs of these holes well.
Then I draw the paper on the paper again I look at the element of Mirror Mirror Mirror I’m making out. Next The procedures are the same. I place the output from the printer on the other side of the PCB. After fixing the paper on the other surface by looking at the alignment holes that I have punched into the corners of the PCB, I fix it so that it does not play the paper by catalyzing it from the sides and corners. This is very important. If you do the alignment incorrectly, the other side does not have a pleasant display. There’s no point in what you do. Pay attention to this detail.
The next process is again ironing. In the ironing process, I hold the iron at medium temperatures and iron it for about 4-5 minutes. After the ironing process is finished with paper pcbyi paper and I expect the paper to soften a little. Already when the paper is soft, it spontaneously leaves the toner. The toner stays on the pcb as well. If you dry out the paper pcbyi you’ll see that the pressure you’ve done is white. The reason for this is that even though you remove the toner from the paper and clean it, paper remains on the toner. There is a knack for doing this: D Dry the PCB completely to get rid of white paper residue.
All the toners will be white. Use a toothbrush without adding perhydrol into the acid you are using to dissolve the PCB and apply it gently over the pressure. The acid will remove all paper residue. Wash the PCB with water after seeing that everything is black. After that, if you no longer dry the pcbyi, there will be no bleaching due to the paper residue.
Remember, these jobs depend on how much you’re working on the PCB. For some, overprinting is unnecessary. In some, it is important for the PCB to appeal to the eye rather than to work.
If you pay attention to what I said, the pcbs you made appear to be ready.
I’m gonna say that for now. My archive cleaning work is in progress. Soon, I will always come up with the projects I have done on the foot again. Read more..